CATTLEYAS: Control of Blooming Time

Cattleya Alliance Orchid Doctor

by Robert M. [Bert] Hamilton (Compiler)

Originally published in The Orchid Doctor in 1980 and 1988

Posted by Sys Admin about 5 years ago.

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Flowering control must be started before buds are initiated. A69-524
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  1. Carol Holdren
    4 months ago
    Hi Tatjana, I believe it refers to the AOS Orchids Bulletin 1969 and page 524. I looked at the AOS website and their magazines do not go back that far. There is a Robert Hamilton book, “When Does it Flower” that you could purchase used. Also Orchid Wiz gives blooming times and there are several cattleya books that have information. I’m happy to look up a plant if you like. Cheers, Carol
  2. Tatjana Opekunova
    5 months ago
    How to Read Full Text of Article A69-524

More The Orchid Doctor Articles under the Heading Cattleyas

Cattleyas Comments
CATTLEYAS: Anther Discoloration Black; in a florist's cooler it spreads to underside of column and throat; occurs when they are lighted to delay flowering in growing; if not that, it may be due to a fungus as in cymbidiums; lower the humidity at night; give more daylight. A74-217 0
CATTLEYAS: Bifoliate Species in Breeding Yellow, orange, red and green hybrids as derived from C. aclandiae, aurantiaca, bicolor, forbesii, granulosa, leopoldii (guttata), schillerana, and velutina; refer to OD74-5+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Brown Striations and Cracks Show in Pseudobulbs These curious striations are abcission zones which produce cracks; cause is not known nor is a cure; apparently not pathological. A66-311; AH59 0
CATTLEYAS: Control of Flowering Use of lights in speeding up growth at different temperatures, to maintain flowering every six months; refer to A59-163+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Cracking of Pseudobulbs Horizontally Some break off at the crack line; they develop year after year; possibly genetic in source; treatment for nutrient deficiency has not been effective. AH59 0
CATTLEYAS: Fertilizing Program High nitrogen 30-10-10 or 10-10-10 is good for period March to October at 1 tpg every 10 or 14 days; from November to February apply every 21 to 28 days; for every fourth feeding all year long use low nitrogen feed 6-30-30. OD73-115 0
CATTLEYAS: Flared Petals Flaring is a rather unstable characteristic which varies from one blooming to another; it is known as peloria; the Lc's. stem from Laelia purpurata; the straight cattleyas from C. intermedia, especially var. 'aquinii'; history of breeding given; refer to OD80-5+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers Open Prematurely Cloudy weather causes short-day effect and stimulates flowering; weak light causes lack of carbohydrates. A77-619 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers "sooting" May be flyspeck (microthyriella) or leaf-spot (Phyflos tictina pyriformis); use Benlate 1 ttpg.; use also more ventilation. A79-124 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers with White Warts Likely caused by spider mites; use malathion or Kelthane, plus 1/2 teaspoon liquid dish-washing solution per gallon of water. A78-1124 0
CATTLEYAS: Hereditary Influences In breeding they have certain dominant characteristics; refer to A60-14 0
CATTLEYAS: How to Delay Blooming On other than C. mossiae try 65 deg.F night temperature November 1 to January 25 or 30, then drop to 55 deg. to May 1, then up to 60 to 65 deg. to flower. A78-909 0
CATTLEYAS: Leads; Only One of Four New Ones Produced Flowers This is not uncommon due primarily to culture, but parentage is a factor; try good culture first. A67-1010 0
CATTLEYAS: Leaves as Indicators Avoid plants with red color unless all the seedlings show red; avoid pleated or irregular leaves. ODA78(l)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Leaves with Hooks on Their Ends A pronounced hook to the leaf indicates an award-potential plant; also the lower third of the leaf will be the widest. ODA78(l)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Light Requirements To flower moderately well they should have 1,500 fc. A79-124; no buds set if daylight exceeds 18 hours. A80-513 0
CATTLEYAS: Minimum Optimums For spring flowering: 55 deg.F.nights, 50% relative humidity, 4,000 fc.in summer and 2,000 fc. in winter; Autumn flowering plants need 50 deg.F nights; 40 to 50% relative humidity, 2,000 fc. in winter and 4,000 in summer. AU71-135 0
CATTLEYAS: No Bloom on C. Mary Schroeder with 20 Pseudobulbs, Half with Sheaths Use night temperature of 55 deg.F, not 68 deg.F.; divide plant. A79-4 0
CATTLEYAS: Reasons for Non-flowering Some leads do not flower under good cultural conditions; a high percentage of them result from too high night temperature; or, from crowding, shrivelled growth from improper watering and root loss, and weak growths. A64-145 1
CATTLEYAS: Repotted Plants Developed Roots But the Leaves Became Soft and Bulbs Shrivelled To cure, put all in a polyethylene bag, close the top, place it out of direct sun for three weeks for new roots to show. A72-55 0
CATTLEYAS: Seedlings Received with Stems Black or with Brown Streaks For details of treatment refer to A73-326; spray heavily with Truban 1 tpg.; not a virus disease. A73-991 0
CATTLEYAS: Tetraploids Can be identified by the thick succulence of their leaves and their sharp edges. ODA78(1)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Two-month Old Sheaths Do Not Produce It is not abnormal, some species mature their growths months before flowering; growers can make use of lights to extend "length of day" to slow flowering time after sheaths are made up; 75 to 95 days after lights are turned off the buds come into flower. A63-392 0
CATTLEYAS: Unifoliate Sometimes Grown Bifoliate and Even Trifoliate Depends on culture and environment; better conditions stimulate bifoliate leads; wrong temperatures and long periods of light inhibit flower initiation. A70-916 0
CATTLEYAS: Weak Growths in the Winter Because of Lack of Sun Do not remove weak growths, they produce photosynthates. A71-609 0
CATTLEYAS: Yellow Flowers Show Crippling Lineage is more responsible than environment; some yellows vary from year to year, and from stem to stem. A76-1102 0

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