CATTLEYAS: Seedlings Received with Stems Black or with Brown Streaks

Cattleya Alliance Orchid Doctor

by Robert M. [Bert] Hamilton (Compiler)

Originally published in The Orchid Doctor in 1980 and 1988

Posted by Sys Admin over 6 years ago.

Article Blog   Article Index
For details of treatment refer to A73-326; spray heavily with Truban 1 tpg.; not a virus disease. A73-991
Share on Social Media:  
Log in to Add a Comment

More The Orchid Doctor Articles under the Heading Cattleyas

Cattleyas Comments
CATTLEYAS: Anther Discoloration Black; in a florist's cooler it spreads to underside of column and throat; occurs when they are lighted to delay flowering in growing; if not that, it may be due to a fungus as in cymbidiums; lower the humidity at night; give more daylight. A74-217 0
CATTLEYAS: Bifoliate Species in Breeding Yellow, orange, red and green hybrids as derived from C. aclandiae, aurantiaca, bicolor, forbesii, granulosa, leopoldii (guttata), schillerana, and velutina; refer to OD74-5+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Brown Striations and Cracks Show in Pseudobulbs These curious striations are abcission zones which produce cracks; cause is not known nor is a cure; apparently not pathological. A66-311; AH59 0
CATTLEYAS: Control of Blooming Time Flowering control must be started before buds are initiated. A69-524 2
CATTLEYAS: Control of Flowering Use of lights in speeding up growth at different temperatures, to maintain flowering every six months; refer to A59-163+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Cracking of Pseudobulbs Horizontally Some break off at the crack line; they develop year after year; possibly genetic in source; treatment for nutrient deficiency has not been effective. AH59 0
CATTLEYAS: Fertilizing Program High nitrogen 30-10-10 or 10-10-10 is good for period March to October at 1 tpg every 10 or 14 days; from November to February apply every 21 to 28 days; for every fourth feeding all year long use low nitrogen feed 6-30-30. OD73-115 0
CATTLEYAS: Flared Petals Flaring is a rather unstable characteristic which varies from one blooming to another; it is known as peloria; the Lc's. stem from Laelia purpurata; the straight cattleyas from C. intermedia, especially var. 'aquinii'; history of breeding given; refer to OD80-5+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers Open Prematurely Cloudy weather causes short-day effect and stimulates flowering; weak light causes lack of carbohydrates. A77-619 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers "sooting" May be flyspeck (microthyriella) or leaf-spot (Phyflos tictina pyriformis); use Benlate 1 ttpg.; use also more ventilation. A79-124 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers with White Warts Likely caused by spider mites; use malathion or Kelthane, plus 1/2 teaspoon liquid dish-washing solution per gallon of water. A78-1124 0
CATTLEYAS: Hereditary Influences In breeding they have certain dominant characteristics; refer to A60-14 0
CATTLEYAS: How to Delay Blooming On other than C. mossiae try 65 deg.F night temperature November 1 to January 25 or 30, then drop to 55 deg. to May 1, then up to 60 to 65 deg. to flower. A78-909 0
CATTLEYAS: Leads; Only One of Four New Ones Produced Flowers This is not uncommon due primarily to culture, but parentage is a factor; try good culture first. A67-1010 0
CATTLEYAS: Leaves as Indicators Avoid plants with red color unless all the seedlings show red; avoid pleated or irregular leaves. ODA78(l)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Leaves with Hooks on Their Ends A pronounced hook to the leaf indicates an award-potential plant; also the lower third of the leaf will be the widest. ODA78(l)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Light Requirements To flower moderately well they should have 1,500 fc. A79-124; no buds set if daylight exceeds 18 hours. A80-513 0
CATTLEYAS: Minimum Optimums For spring flowering: 55 deg.F.nights, 50% relative humidity, 4,000 fc.in summer and 2,000 fc. in winter; Autumn flowering plants need 50 deg.F nights; 40 to 50% relative humidity, 2,000 fc. in winter and 4,000 in summer. AU71-135 0
CATTLEYAS: No Bloom on C. Mary Schroeder with 20 Pseudobulbs, Half with Sheaths Use night temperature of 55 deg.F, not 68 deg.F.; divide plant. A79-4 0
CATTLEYAS: Reasons for Non-flowering Some leads do not flower under good cultural conditions; a high percentage of them result from too high night temperature; or, from crowding, shrivelled growth from improper watering and root loss, and weak growths. A64-145 1
CATTLEYAS: Repotted Plants Developed Roots But the Leaves Became Soft and Bulbs Shrivelled To cure, put all in a polyethylene bag, close the top, place it out of direct sun for three weeks for new roots to show. A72-55 0
CATTLEYAS: Tetraploids Can be identified by the thick succulence of their leaves and their sharp edges. ODA78(1)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Two-month Old Sheaths Do Not Produce It is not abnormal, some species mature their growths months before flowering; growers can make use of lights to extend "length of day" to slow flowering time after sheaths are made up; 75 to 95 days after lights are turned off the buds come into flower. A63-392 0
CATTLEYAS: Unifoliate Sometimes Grown Bifoliate and Even Trifoliate Depends on culture and environment; better conditions stimulate bifoliate leads; wrong temperatures and long periods of light inhibit flower initiation. A70-916 0
CATTLEYAS: Weak Growths in the Winter Because of Lack of Sun Do not remove weak growths, they produce photosynthates. A71-609 0
CATTLEYAS: Yellow Flowers Show Crippling Lineage is more responsible than environment; some yellows vary from year to year, and from stem to stem. A76-1102 0

New Topics

  1. JENNIFER CHARMAN asked question SSPECIES OF ORCHID in category General Discussion
  2. Lois Lane asked question Why can't I post on this site? in category General Discussion
  3. Karen Johansen asked question Historic Cattleya in category Cattleya Alliance
  4. William Woodcock asked question Encyclia aspera in category Curiosity
  5. Ron Hellendall asked question Designing a greenhouse for orchid growing in category General Discussion

New Comments

  1. Lois Lane commented on member plant Ctna. Why Not by Alex Maximiano
  2. Carol Holdren commented on topic "SSPECIES OF ORCHID" by JENNIFER CHARMAN
  3. Carol Holdren commented on topic "Why can't I post on this site? " by Lois Lane
  4. Carol Holdren commented on topic "Historic Cattleya" by Karen Johansen
  5. Carol Holdren commented on topic "Encyclia aspera" by William Woodcock
  6. Jim McGuinn commented on topic "Designing a greenhouse for orchid growing" by Ron Hellendall
  7. Mark Bennett commented on member plant Sarcochilus Newbold Alta 'SBC092' by Mark Bennett
  8. Mark Bennett commented on member plant Sarcochilus Newbold High Noon 'SB140' by Mark Bennett
  9. Carol Holdren commented on orchid Epi. Moonlight Firefies
  10. Jeanne Uzar Hudson commented on topic "Paph Support" by Nicholas Levendosky
  11. Rosemary Chenery commented on topic "Lost tag - can anyone provide a name" by Rosemary Chenery
  12. Taylor Savage commented on topic "Myrmecatavola Frances Fox" by Elizabeth Wagner
  13. Vanessa Castleberry commented on member plant Phal. Corning-Cervi by Vanessa Castleberry
  14. Arne Schon commented on orchid B. perrinii
  15. Tina Bond commented on member plant Phal. pulchra by Vickie Seibert
  16. Tina Bond commented on member plant Bc. Memoria Nancy Ginoccho by William Gorski
  17. Tina Bond commented on member plant Rlc. Hsinying Williette by Mary Lane
  18. Carol Holdren commented on topic "Articles posted" by Stephen Dorsey
  19. Mary Lane commented on member plant Phal. I-Hsin Rose Milkshake by s mcn
  20. Shawn Dvorak commented on member plant Bulb. mucronatum by Shawn Dvorak