FLOWER SPIKES: Cutting Them Off to Improve Plants

Orchid Doctor

by Robert M. [Bert] Hamilton (Compiler)

Originally published in The Orchid Doctor in 1980 and 1988

Posted by Sys Admin over 5 years ago.

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Many exhibition growers let their champion flower class plants flower each second year only and remove the spikes in off years. AU84-283
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More The Orchid Doctor Articles under the Heading Flower Spikes

Flower Spikes Comments
FLOWER SPIKES: Breaking Off Without Cause In equitant oncidiums it can be caused by heat or water stress. A86-586 0
FLOWER SPIKES: Cutting Them Off Early After a reasonable period (unstated) the spikes should be cut as a contributing factor in long term successful cultivation; as for Oncidium concolor, which otherwise has a relatively short greenhose life. OR84-320 0
FLOWER SPIKES: Numerous, But They Abort On bulbous epidendrums they appear in promising numbers but then dry up, if they do not get sufficient light or have been deprived of sufficient rest of several weeks duration after maturing their growths. A80-850 0
FLOWER SPIKES: Pendant Where the spikes are natiirally pendant, the plants are best grown on mounts, such as Epidendrum faleaturn, Dendrobium parishii% Scuticaria steelii. F86-129 0
FLOWER SPIKES: Shrivel in the Middle Oncidiums show this collapse which is possibly caused by heat stress and water stress combined; a rapidly developing spike if overheated even momentarily will have its cells collapse; water stress is where the spike outgrows its ability to draw water. A86-586 0
FLOWER SPIKES: Tall Ones Shrivel and Fall Over Heavily pigmented doritaenopsis spikes may be absorbing too much heat and burning because they are so sensitive. A85-1323 0

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