Below: Masdevallia coccinea
photo by Joseph Dougherty

ORCHID FAQs

by Joseph Dougherty

This page contains answers to some of the most common questions I've heard at OrchidMania sales and other orchid events over the past several years. I've also started to add interesting/common email questions. If your question isn't addressed here, feel free to contact me for advice.

What does OrchidMania do? Read our About OrchidMania page.

Frequently Asked Questions about Orchids:

Don't see your question in this list? Feel free to email me.

You will also find general cultural information on the culture page, and downloadable PDFs on our PDF download page.

1. What is an orchid, anyway?

Orchids are plants of the family Orchidaceae, which may contain more species than any other plant family (the verdict is still out on this -- at present, the sunflower family still has a higher count of described species, but the orchids are nipping at their heels).

Botanists believe the final tally of orchid species will eventually land somewhere between 25,000 to 30,000 species. But with the rampant destruction orchid habitat around the world, undescribed species are being lost at an alarming rate and we may never know the full extent of the diversity of this amazing plant family. This is why habitat conservation is so very important and time is truly of the essence. For more on the topic of conservation, see Orchid Conservation: The Need for a Balanced and Rational Approach.

Orchids are monocots (as opposed to dicots) and are unique because of the following characteristics:

• The sexual organs of the flower (stamens and pistil, the male and female parts, respectively) are fused together into a single structure called a column. This is unique to orchids (a couple genera of very primitive orchids have separate or only partially fused sex organs).
• Each flower has three sepals and three petals, one of which is modified into a labellum (a.k.a. the "lip"). The sepals look very much like petals. Some orchids have fused sepals (such as the slipper orchids -- Paphiopedilum and Phragmipedium), while others, such as Masdevallia and Dracula, have such tiny petals that they can barely be seen. There are countless variations on these basic structures, but they exist nonetheless in every orchid flower.
• Orchid flowers exhibit bilateral symmetry -- meaning there is a plane down the midline of the flower, with each side being a mirror image of the other side.
• Orchids produce large quantities of tiny seeds, which entirely lack endosperm, the food stores that typically fuel the development and growth of a baby plant. Because of this, orchid embryos require the aid of mycorrhizzal fungi to develop.
• Orchid pollen is bound together in a few large clumps called pollinia. The number, shape, and arrangement of pollinia is an identifying feature used to differentiate varying genera.

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2. Where do orchids grow in nature?

Orchids occur naturally from the Arctic Circle to the southernmost tips of every continent. Only Antarctica has no native orchids. The orchids that most hobbyists find interesting come primarily from the forests and mountain ranges of the tropics. Most are epiphytes or lithophytes, with only a few terrestrial species being common in cultivation.

In nature, orchids can be divided into four distinct types according to their growing substrata. Those growing on trees are classified as epiphytes, or "air plants." Those which cling to the surfaces of rocks are called lithophytes, or rock growers. Using regular soil in the pots of epiphytes and lithophytes smothers their roots and will eventually kill these plants. Terrestrials, however, are those orchids that normally do grow in the ground like a typical garden plant. Lastly, those that live entirely underground and get their nutrition by tapping into the root systems of other plants or by absorbing decaying leaf litter and other organic materials are called saprophytes. Saprophytes are extremly difficult to keep alive in captivity.

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3. Are orchids hard to grow in my home?

This the most common question we get from people who are new to orchids. For 95% of the orchids commonly seen in cultivation, the answer is "no, so long as you pick the right ones."

Most orchids are not the delicate, hard to grow plants some people think they are. They are the largest group of plants in the world, contrary to the notion of them as exotic imports. If you look, you'll surely find orchids of some kind growing wild on a lot or in a park near you. Typically these aren't the kind that people choose to cultivate, but it illustrates how tough some orchids can be.

Most orchids in cultivation are originally from imported stock -- but today most are bred and grown near to where you live. This is much the same as with other houseplants, most of which started out two or more centuries ago as wild tropical residents but, through many generations of selective breeding and hybridization, are now very well adapted to grow under the conditions found in the typical home.

Like other houseplants, orchids can be grown successfully if their basic needs are met. These basic needs rarely require a greenhouse. Most orchids can be raised as houseplants. If you're attentive enough to raise other houseplants, orchids should be simple. You can expect to find something you can grow, simply because orchids have adapted to survive in most areas of the globe as "wild" plants. This allows you a wide range of conditions that will work for growing various orchids. All you have to do is match a plant's needs with what conditions you can provide. If you follow that basic tenet when shopping, you'll encounter all kinds of success!

So relax and enjoy these wonderful plants without fear. Despite rumors of exacting care, most are no harder to deal with than other houseplants. That's not to say that all orchids are easy -- some are very exacting. But you're not going to find the really specialized ones for sale at your average florist or even at the typical orchid grower. By the time you're ready for the tough ones, you'll know it.

In the mean time, some degree of trial and error may be necessary to find plants that grow like weeds in your environment, but that can be fun as well. We hope you get off to a happy start down the garden path into the world of orchids. We're sure you'll get tons of pleasure out of your orchids, Mother Nature's Crown Jewels.

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4. When should I repot my plant?

Orchids need repotting when the potting material breaks down. If the bark snaps easily between your fingers, it needs to be replaced. If you see dead, soggy roots and constantly wet potting material, a repotting is overdue. Orchids also need to be repotted when they overgrow their pot (Phalaenopsis often tell you their media is sour by sending their roots up and over the edge of the pot), and/or the plant simply becomes too unwieldly.... but remember: repot for the roots, not for the foliage.

Yes, it is OK for your sprawling Maxillaria to be hanging over the edges of the pot! And it is quite conceivable that a three foot tall Mokara may be potted in 4 inch basket.

The best time to repot is when you see new rooting activity or the beginning of a new growth. New growth activity is usually preceeded by nice green root tips on new, plump white roots. In Phalaenopsis, the new roots emerge from the base of the plant. In psuedobulbous plants (Oncidium, Brassia, etc.), new roots arise from the new growths. If in doubt, repot in the spring.

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5. When and where do I cut a spent flower spike?

In most cases, cut at the base of the spike with a sharp, hot (to sterilize it), clean tool. If cutting a spike that is still green, always cut with a very hot instrument, to seal the cut, and cover the cut with a fungicide (such as a sprinkling of cinnamon). Generally it is best to leave a spent spike alone until it is fully dry and dead. That way you can simply snap the old spike off at the base with no worry about infecting living plant tissue.

Phalaenopsis will generally re-bloom from the same spike if given a little extra care. The spike should be cut between the scar left by the first flower and the last node (swollen, jointed area on the stem). One of the lower nodes will then initiate a new spike that will generally produce flowers within eight to 12 weeks. Younger or weaker plants may not re-bloom. It is also a good idea to cut the spike off entirely by midsummer to allow the plant to grow strongly to produce next year's inflorescence.

NOTE: Some plants bloom successively from the same spike for a long period of time. For example, you never ever cut off a Psychopsis spike that isn't completely dry and dead. Even though it may appear at the moment that the spike is done flowering, it might continue -- so if you aren't certain, don't cut!

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6. How often should I water my orchids?

This is a really tricky question with no single clear answer. There are orchids, such as some Dendrobium, that like to stay very dry. Others, such as many Pleurothallids, do not like to ever dry out completely. Some orchids, such as Disa and Phragmipedium, even like to stand in water for extended periods of time!

But as a general rule, if you are fairly new to orchids and you have the "common" types (i.e. Dendrobium, Oncidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, etc.) you can water about every four to seven days depending on the season and the dryness of your home. Every home is a bit different, but homes with lots of curtains and carpet tend to be especially dry. Allow the plants to approach dryness, gauged by pot weight or by the pencil trick (the point of a sharpened lead pencil, when inserted into the medium, will darken with moisture if the plant has enough water), and apply sufficient water so that it drains freely through the container. Do not allow plants to sit in stagnant water.

As a general rule, it is nearly impossible to overwater a plant in a hanging basket or mounted on a slab. If you really enjoy the process of watering your plants, consider transferring potted orchids into hanging baskets or onto slabs of cork or tree fern.

Flowering plants may require more frequent watering. Most plants need less water when not in active growth (generally winter months), and more while growing (generally spring and summer months). Plants with thinner, softer foliage often require more water than those with harder, more succulent leaves. Plants with pseudobulbs (such as Dendrobium and Oncidium) generally need to dry out more between watering than do those without these water storage organs (such as Phalaenopsis and Vanda). Some plants must be "dried out" in the winter to initiate blooming -- you'll have to check the cultural requirements for the individual plants you are growing to determine these kinds of needs.

Lastly, increased frequency of watering will not make up for a poor root system. If roots are not plump and alive, repotting may be called for, or the plant may have been recently repotted by the vendor, in which case it will require raised humidity to compensate for the lack of water uptake by the roots.

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(Below: Gomesa crispa, photo by Joseph Dougherty)

7. Why is my orchid flower upside down?

Most orchid flower stems twist around during development, a process called resupination. As the flower bud develops, the flower is in fact upside down (i.e. the labellum is uppermost). In most commonly cultivated orchids, the stem twists 180 degrees as the bud matures, and once the flower opens it appears to be "right side up."

However, many genera -- such as Encyclia/Prosthechea -- have flowers that have the labellum uppermost. These flowers are nonresupinate and this is normal for such genera. When nonresupinate flowers develop in plants that are typically resupinate, it can usually be attributed to moving the plant (or its light source) during the flowers' development. Shifting the plant's location as the flower buds are growing can "confuse" the plant's orientation and result in a jumble of nonresupinate or partially resupinate flowers.

Another cause for this condition is the changing orientation of the inflorescence (the "flower spike"). As the buds mature, they may weight a spike to the point where it cannot support the weight of the flowers and begins to sag. This is especially true of hybrids bred to produce unnaturally robust blooms. The changing orientation of the inflorescence to the light source has the same effect as moving the plant. The solution is the stake the inflorescence early in its development if you know the buds will eventually be heavy enough to strain the plant's ability to hold them aloft.

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8. Should blooming orchids still be fertilized?

Yes, if anything, flowering plants need extra fertilizer. The age-old adage is "feed weakly, weekly." Fertilize every week with a solution diluted to half the dosage suggested on the package label.

Your plants will need to be fertilized with a product appropriate to the medium in which they are grown. In general, plants in a bark-based mix will need a fertilizer high in nitrogen (usually in a 3-1-1 ratio), while a balanced fertilizer will do for all others (usually a 1-1-1 ratio). Bloom-enhancing fertilizers are sold, but if you don't have any or aren't sure about whether it is appropriate for your situation, use the same balanced fertilizer you use for your other orchids. Bear in mind that orchids do far better with too little fertilizer than with too much. It is easy to scorch the foliage (if you see black tips on your orchid's leaves, that is "fertilizer burn").

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Below: Paphiopedilum sukhakulii by Joseph Dougherty

9. Are orchids parasites?

The simple answer you'll generally hear is "no." In fact, most people will jump up and down when you ask this and absolutely swear that there are no parasitic orchids. Actually, however, some of the saprophytic ones, such as those in the genus Corallorhiza, can be parasitic or semiparasitic on the roots of the oaks, birches, and other hardwoods under which they grow. But these orchids are not seen in cultivation and most people are thinking of the many species that cling to the branches of rain forest trees 100 to 150 feet above the ground when they ask this question.

Among those epiphytic plants, there are no known parasites. In nature, many orchids cling to trees and bushes as a growth habit. But these orchids derive no nourishment from the host plant. They are no more parasitic than a bird perched in the same tree is parasitic. For most orchids, their "platform" is nothing more than a perch. Orchids may even help attract pollinators and seed distributors to a tree's own flowers and fruit, so the argument can be made that they potentially offer some benefit to the host tree. Most orchids do not injure their host tree in any way -- unless the sheer weight of epiphytes on a branch gets so great that the branch breaks during a rainstorm, as is fairly common in the tropics. However, this is usually due more to the burden of large water-holding bromeliads than to the comparatively miniscule weight of most orchids. But giant specimens of Grammatophyllum and Dendrobium can be a serious burden when they grow to full size.... but that still doesn't qualify them as parasites, since they don't take their nutritive needs directly from the host.

... so that's my convoluted answer to a simple question.

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10. How do I repot?

There are several different ways to repot, and different orchid varieties can require different repotting techniques and potting materials. In general, most orchid plants that are growing in a fir bark mixture in pots will break down the medium within one to two years. Coconut chips last a bit longer. Slabs rarely need to be replaced... when the orchid grows too large for its present mount, just strap the small slab onto a larger one and let the plant keep growing.

When repotting, remove the old mix from the pot, being careful not to break or crush too many roots. Hollow or mushy roots to the touch are considered dead and can be trimmed off. Roots that feel solid are generally the living roots. Rinse the root system thoroughly as this makes them more flexible, and cleans off the old potting medium so you can have a clearer look at the roots. Put the plant in a new pot (plastic or clay, depending on what type of orchid you have) carefully bending the aerial roots into the pot. All orchids enjoy being rather root-bound, so make certain that there is only an extra inch or so for the roots to expand to in order to become root-bound again. You will likely crack some roots when you tuck them into the new pot and fill in with new medium. This is inevitable and the plant should recover within a couple of weeks.

When you are using a bark mixture, tap on the sides of the pot to help the medium settle into the pot. This reduces how much you need to press down on the medium to stabilize the plant. Keeping the plant stable in the pot is important for healthy growth. If the plant is loose and/or wobbly, it will most likely not grow well and should be reset in the pot.

If you are using sphagnum moss, get it slightly damp and wrap it around the roots lightly before placing the plant into the pot. This way you don't have to worry about air pockets in the bottom of the pot.

After repotting, the plant sometimes needs to adjust from shock. One tip we recommend is not to water the plant for about 3 to 5 days. This will give the roots a chance to recover.

The illustrated guide to orchid repotting will take you offsite, but it is a great page.

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11. Why won’t my orchid rebloom?

The most common reasons are:

• The plant is sympodial and hasn't grown a new lead yet
• The plant isn't getting enough light
  
• The root system is damaged and that is taxing the plant's strenght
  
• You're not exposing the plant to sufficient temperature fluctuation
  
• There is too much salt (TDS) in your water
  

Sympodial: Most of the common sympodial orchids only bloom once from each growth. If your plant hasn't produced a new growth, it cannot flower until it does.

Light: This is the most common problem. Unless you are growing entirely under artificial light, plants need to be close to a window, no more than a couple feet away at most. Plants "see" light from above, not sideways, and if you grow your plants too far from a window you will notice new growths becoming smaller and the leaves much narrower. If the leaves are dark green, the plant definitely isn't getting enough light. The plant will not be able to store the energy it needs to bloom.

Poor root systems: This is one of the most common problems and it is usually caused by over-watering, or forgetting to repot when the medium is broken down. If this happens you will have to repot is as soon as possible in order to re-establish the root system.

Temperature: For most spring blooming orchids, it is the cool nights of winter that initiate the development of a spike. Temperatures should drop below 60° Fahrenheit at night (preferably below 55°) for at least two week, and rise to over 65-75° during the day. Generally a 10-15° diurnal/nocturnal temperature fluctuation is needed to initiate flowering for most orchids.

Bad Water: The water you give your orchids should be clean. The amount of total dissolved solids (TDS) that different genera can tolerate varies widely, but almost no orchids enjoy being subjected to frequent doses of salty water. Ideally, you'd use rain (very slightly acidic rain water is what most orchids are exposed to in nature), distilled water, or reverse osmosis water. In areas where the water municipality softens the water with dissolved salts, the accumulated minerals that build up in the potting media will most likely slow down, damage, or kill root growth in orchids. You can combat this with periodic leaching with high quality water. If possible, use bottled water to feed your orchids. If you live someplace where the tap water quality is truly horrid, such as in Southern California, you should really consider installing an RO system to purify your water.

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12. Can I repot my orchid when it is in spike or blooming?

It depends on the condition of the plant and if repotting is truly desperately necessary. The process of producing flowers takes a toll on a plant... it can be pretty stressful. In a healthy plant, this is no big deal and the plant weathers the process with no apparent distress. But in a plant that is somewhat sickly or otherwise less than perfect, throwing up a flower spike may actually be its last gasp -- an effort to pass on its genes before expiring. In that scenario, you're better off to nip the developing spike in the bud and try to concentrate on nursing the plant into full health before letting it bloom.

If you repot when your plant is actually blooming, it is normal for the flowers to drop faster than normal, sometimes almost immediately. So only repot when blooming if you feel it is absolutely necessary -- in which case you might want to reconsider whether it is in the plant's best interest to allow it to produce flowers in the first place.

If your desire is simply to put the plant into a prettier pot to show if off while it is blooming, it is much better to set the current pot inside a larger one than to actually change the pot the plant lives in. You can cover the surface of the pot with sphagnum or decorative moss to mask the "pot inside a pot" appearance.

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13. Why are the buds on my flower spike turning funny colors and falling off or rotting?

This is referred to as bud blast, and may be caused by any of the following:

• Moisture: The plant may be too dry between waterings, causing it to withdraw moisture from the buds.
• Temperature: There may be some wide swings in temperature. The plant may be too hot or too cold. Either can cause bud blast. Check to see whether the plant is getting hit by direct sun, or the plant is too close to an air conditioner or heating vent. For Phalaenopsis, nighttime temperatures cannot drop below 60° Fahrenheit once the buds have started to form.
• Gas fumes: There may be some fumes in the air caused by paint, natural gas leaks, or other chemicals. Flowers naturally create their own methane and collapse after pollination to save energy for seed production. Certain forms of methane or ethylene may trigger bud or flower collapse.
• Too much water: Cattleyas in particular are sensitive while in bud to overwatering, causing the buds to actually turn black in the sheath.
• Too little light: All plants need an adequate amount of light in order to flower correctly. Placing a plant in the center of a room, on a coffee table for example, is fine for display during an evening of entertaining, but to maintain proper growth and flower development it is best to keep the plant in its growing area (near a window or under lights).

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14. How can I tell what color this out-of-bloom Phalaenopsis is going to be when it blooms?

Do you want the truthful answer, or the one that will make you feel good?

The truth is, you can't tell (unless, of course, the plant name or something else on the label tells you specifically what the color is going to be). If you're shopping a bargain rack of out-of-bloom plants, concentrate on healthy leaf and root growth. Don't worry about the flower color.

NOW.... some people will tell you that it is possible to tell the flower color by looking for purple or pink pigmentation in the foliage. Pigmentation along the leaf margin or underside is an indication that the flowers will have the same pigmentation. The problem with this technique (other than that it simply doesn't work) is that the all-white flower may have a tiny fleck or two of purple in the throat or on the column, and they'll offer that as evidence that the trick works.

This is the "feel good" answer you might get from a garden store clerk when you ask this question.... but the fact remains -- if you've got an unidentified orchid, you simple don't know what the flowers will look like until the plant spikes and the flowers open. And that is the fun of it. The point of growing an unlabeled plant is the joy of the chase... you get to hunt down the ID when it flowers -- or maybe not. Just enjoy the pretty plants and don't worry about the name.

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15. What does it mean when someone says a plant is an "intermediate" or a "cool" grower?

Temperatures key:

• Cool to Intermediate = 48°F min. to 78°F max.
• Intermediate to Cool = 52°F min. to 80°F max.
• Intermediate = 55°F min. to 85°F max.
• Intermediate to Warm = 58°F min. to 88°F max.
• Warm = 65°F min. to 95°F max.

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16. What does it mean when someone says a plant should be grown "dry" or "moist?"

• Moist = water often; do not let dry completely
• Slightly Moist = 2-3 waterings per week; let dry slightly between waterings; in warm weather water daily (possibly more than once)
• Slightly dry = 1-2 waterings per week; let dry entirely between waterings
• Dry = 1 watering per week or less; let dry completely for a couple days or longer between waterings

  Some orchids require seasonal differences. These are generally designated by growing season first/dormant season second.

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17. Why should I put a fan in my indoor growing area?

Air movement is good for plants -- it creates stronger growths and helps prevent diseases, especially bacterial rots and fungi.

All plants grow better with a slight breeze. This helps cool plants during warm weather and the movement of foliage helps to strengthen the plant. It also helps build sturdier flower spikes. Fans are not necessary when plants are grown outdoors, but should be used for indoor growing areas. The main thing to keep in mind is that you are trying to replicate natural conditions from your plants' native habitats... and the air is almost never still in those natural settings.

One thing to bear in mind is that increasing air flow in your growing area will increase the rate of transpiration and evaporation among your plants (often this is the goal). For moisture-loving plants (such as many pleurothallids) you many need to readjust your watering schedule. Adding a humidifier may also be useful in that instance. Do not sacrifice air movement because of low humidity concerns.

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18. How often should I water my orchids?

The simple answer: Once every four to seven days depending on season and dryness of the home.

Really, it depends on what kind of plant you have. Allow the plants to approach dryness, gauged by pot weight or by the pencil trick (the point of a sharpened lead pencil, when inserted into the medium, will darken with moisture if the plant has enough water), and apply enough water so that it drains freely through the container. As a general rule, do not allow orchids to sit in standing water (there are exceptions, such as Disa and Phragmipedium, but this is the general rule).

Flowering plants may require more-frequent waterings to make up for the greater burden of the flowers. Plants will require less water when not in active growth (generally winter months), and more while growing (generally spring and summer months). Increased frequency of watering will not make up for a poor root system. If roots are not plump and alive, repotting may be called for, or the plant may have been recently repotted by the vendor, in which case it will require raised humidity to compensate for the lack of supporting root uptake. Finally, plants with thinner, softer foliage will generally require more water than those whith harder, more succulent leaves. Plants with pseudobulbs (such as dendrobiums and cattleyas) generally need to dry out more between waterings than do those without them (such as phalaenopsis).

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19. Can you suggest/recommend something to spray on my orchid plants to keep my cat from eating the plants? He seems to like to eat the leaves as well as occassionally the stems as they are about to bloom.

This is actually a really common problem... cats seem to have a true fondness for orchids. I'd recommend getting rid of the cat. There is no known spray repellant that truly works against such horrid little beasts (other than pepper spray, which you may not enjoy, either).

If you insist on keeping your feline tormentor, you could try distracting the cat with more tantalizing treats... many pet stores sell plugs of sweetgrasses (usually in 2" to 4" pots; trays are also available if you want to grow your own) that cats enjoy nibbling on. Place these strategically to catch the cat's attention.

My own preferred response would be an elaborate miniature system of tension-loaded paw snares, miniature bamboo punjab spikes arrayed in a phalanx around the most vulnerable pots, and

As a last resort, try sprinkling some cayenne pepper around the plants. This can only be done on a short term basis and must be washed away thoroughly after a week or so... longer exposure may harm the plants. You can repeat it every once in a while... but really the long term solution is to get rid of the cat, or make it impossible for him/her to reach the orchids.

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20. What do the numbers (such as 20-20-20) on fertilizers mean?

Those numbers represent the concentration of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). These are the principle nutrients in most commercial fertilizers. They are always listed in this N-P-K order.

• Nitrogen is vital for green leafy growth.
  
• Phosphorus, in conjunction with potassium, contributes to overall plant vigor. Orchids have an increased P need when producing a flower spike.
  
• Potassium is important for green leafy growth and overall plant strength. Orchids have an increased K need when producing a flower spike.

When you see 20-20-20 on a bottle label, this means the fertilizer is balanced: 20% Nitrogen (N), 20% Phosphorus (P), and 20% Potassium (K). Many growers use a balanced fertilzer for most of the year, but switch to a 10-30-30 mix as a plant begins to develop a spike.

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21. Why do some plants from the same genus have such different watering needs?

From an email question: "I water all my orchids at the same time. Some of the bulbs wither and
some don't. Why is this happening?"

The difficulty you're experiencing is most likely due to the fact that each species, even though they are generally similar across a genus, can have individual needs... and broad genera like Oncidium or Maxillaria can have a really wide mix. Some like to stay wet and others like to stay mostly very dry. Some are subcanopy growers, meaning they get little bright light because they're shaded by overhead foliage in nature, while others grow on forest emergents (the very tallest trees in the rainforest) and thus get a great deal of very bright light. Adding to the difficulty is that many plants sold as Oncidium hybrids actually contain Miltonia, Miltoniopsis, etc. in the cross (though most modern hybrid are now more accurately described with intergeneric names, you'll still encounter this misleading practice of naming a complex hybrid with a single name, which might lead you to treat it like one of the parents and disregard the cultural needs of the other parent).

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22. Can I grow orchids from seed?

Technically, yes, you can grow orchids from seed... but the real question is, do you want to? Unless you've got immense patience and a lot of free time, you probably don't want to.

The seeds of orchids are MUCH tinier than the seeds of most other plants. When an orchid seed pod is opened, a fine white powder, looking somewhat like powdered sugar, spills out (or on a breezy day, blows away). Each fine grain is a single seed.

Growing orchids from seed is more like a science project than an experience in gardening. Orchid seed must be sewn in a special mixture of agar and nutrients, and they require a symbiotic fungus in order to germinate. This means you can not just pour orchid seeds into a pot of soil or fine bark... they simply won't grow.

In addition to the heavy investment in equipment (a hood, sterile flasking equipment, etc.), there is a very heavy investment in time. It takes two to three years to get a seedling that is just a couple inches tall. Many plants must be 5 to 7 years old before they'll bloom, so you have to be really patient when growing from seed. If you are ready to care for the plants for that length of time, then by all means try to do some flasking on your own. Most people, however, would rather buy a seedling that is already a few inches tall (or wide). This is still a very economical way to acquire lots of plants, and you only have to wait one or two years (rather than half a decade) to see them bloom.

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23. How old is that seedling with a 3" to 4" leafspan, and when will it bloom?

That seedling is probably about 3 years old... maybe a little older or younger (varies depending on genus). Don't be alarmed by that, though. They grow really slowly at first... starting as a barely visible little ball of green lint in the agar... then they start to pick up steam. If you chart the growth it would look like an upward exponential growth curve... a slow start, then a quick rise.

When starting from a 3" to 4" LS seedling, you can expect it to produce the first bud in 18 to 30 months (bear in mind that many orchids are fully mature at much smaller than this size, but if you are already into growing miniatures, you're probably not learning anything new from this FAQ page).

Age isn't the only factor to consider -- really it is leafspan that you want to watch, not overall age. Once a plant like a Phal or Paph hits 10 inches to 12 inches wide, you can expect a bud at any time. This is an average blooming size. Some plants will bloom smaller (the Brachypetalum section Paphs; the smaller Phals, like lobbii and pulchrum) and may even start to spike at 3"-4". Others will have to get much larger, such as Paph. kolopakingii, which will have a leafspan of well over a meter before it blooms.

Growth tends to be really rapid in late spring/summer, then very slow the rest of the year. Once the plant reaches maximum leafspan, it will send up another plant from the base. After the current growth flowers, it will not flower again (as with everything, there are exceptions), but instead will pour all its energy into producing another growth or two. Subsequent plants grow much more rapidly than those that are sewn from seed, because they already have established root stock and they can draw energy from the parent plant (which, with its broad foliage collecting light energy, is like a little power plant fueling the new growth). The older fan will eventually senesce (turn light green, then yellow, then dry and brown). This is a natural process and nothing to worry about.

24. Should I leave the leafless canes on a Dendrobium (i.e. kingianum) or remove them?

Yes, leave the canes on any Dendrobium so long as they are fleshy and alive. Even if they have lost all their leaves, they remain an integral part of the plant. They act as a storage organ for the plant... it can draw nutrients from the old canes if/when it wants to. Old canes can also send up new growths and in many species old canes will still bloom. In some species, only the old canes bloom. So don't remove Dendrobium canes unless they are dry and brittle.

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25. What are the small brown spots I often see on healthy orchid leaves? Is it related to sun exposure? My Oncidium Sharry Baby has them sometimes.

Oncidiums, especially Sharry Baby, are notorious for getting those spots. An orchid virus is a possibility, but if you know there hasn't been any exposure (i.e. you don't smoke and there haven't been any other suspicious plants in your growning area), then it may be merely physical damage. The most common cause is a drop of water sitting on the leaf when temperatures drop -- this shocks the cells underneath and they die... but as long as a fungal rot does not set in, it is just in an isolated area, so it is relatively minor. The results are merely cosmetic. Try to avoid letting the leaves get wet overnight or in cold weather.

You may need to think about a virus, however, if multiple plants are showing these spots or if the spots are more rectangular than round (rectangular spots tend to indicate an infection). The Tobacco Mosaic Virus is easily spread into orchids from the fingers of a smoker, especially during pruning or repotting. If you smoke, wear gloves while repotting.

This probably isn't related to sun exposure. A sunburn tends to fry the leaves at their broadest point of exposure -- usually the portion where the leaf bends over from gravity. Some plants increase the amount of carotenoids (the plant equivalent of our melatonin) and other pigments in their leaves in response to high light exposure. This usually gives the leaves a reddish-purple color. The "tan" is evenly distributed, though, and doesn't result in spotting of the leaves.

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26. I bought a Stanhopea in bloom last winter, and then I neglected it quite a bit. The leaves have fallen off and the bulbs are quite shriveled. Can this plant be saved?

Yes, if you pay a little more attention to it. It sounds like your plant has perceived your inattention as a signal to go dormant... this happens often in nature when environmental conditions are unfavorable to growth. The plants shut down most metabolic activity and drop their leaves (a source of moisture loss) in order to survive tough times, such as an abnormally long dry season. Many genera (Catasetum, Stanhopea, Embreea, Coryanthes, etc.) produce large thin leaves that are essentially disposable.... In nature they get eaten up by insects and the plant doesn't try to protect them with a thick cuticle the way other orchids do (such as Cattleya). Instead it just makes more leaves and pumps them out quickly during the next growth season. Some genera, such as Catasetum, actually require this period of stress in order to induce blooming.

With some attention, your plant can probably do quite well and may even respond to the improved care by blooming rather vigorously. When you see these plants in the wild, shriveled backbulbs are pretty normal in Stanhopeas and their relatives, and old leaves are often discarded or look rather tattered by the time the plant gets done blooming.

Be sure to double check that your cultural conditions are appropriate for the orchids you are trying to grow. Stanhopeas tend to like warm temps... up to 75 or 80 during the day, and down to 55 to 60 at night. Direct sun of any kind will generally burn the leaves. Stanhopeas light moderate to bright light, and some species can go quite low and still be happy. Sphagnum works very well as a medium to keep the roots mildly moist. If it dries a bit between waterings that is OK, especially in winter. Keep them well watered when new growths are emerging, otherwise you can get "accordion leaves."

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28. Is there something I can do to some orchid plants that appear to have developed some sort of black fungus on the backs of the leaves?

Spray them with a fungicide formulated for use on orchids. How does one determine if plants have a fungus? It is a little difficult to tell, but if you have inspected your plants and cannot find any signs of insect infestation, you should probably suspect a fungal infection. Your orchids may not look quite right, the leaves may be turning mushy, or they could be oddly discolored. Crown rot is a form of fungus and is especially prevalent in Phalaenopsis (most common when water is left standing in the crown overnight with cool temperatures). Brown or black spots on orchid leaves are a sign of a fungus infection, especially if they spread and are oozing. Soft leaves or teretes with discolorations can also be a fungus infection.

So…what to use? Several fungicides are good choices. These include Captan™, Physan 20™, or Dithane™. During hot and muggy summer months, consider spraying your orchids prophylactically on a weekly basis. Otherwise, spray your orchids monthly. Consider developing a regimen that uses alternating products.

Cinnamon and listerine are popular home remedies that can be quite effective depending on the nature of the infestation you're trying to overcome. These home remedies are more commonly used prophylactically when dividing plants, but you might start by trying some cinnamon on the black spots to see if it has an impact.

If you want to try avoiding the use of chemicals, then you may need to rearrange your growing area.Fungus occurs when airflow is hindered. Good air movement is the best tool to prevent a fungal infection. After treatment clears the problem, increase air flow (by installing fans or opening windows) to prevent a recurrence of the fungus. Make sure to inspect your plants periodically to avoid a spread of the fungus, and think about setting vulnerable plants in locations where you can inspect them often.

Safety Tips: Any pesticide or fungicide must be used with great care. These are toxic products. Always follow the label directions. Protect yourself while using these products; wear gloves, masks, etc. Remove pets from the area.

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last updated: December 17, 2011 by Joseph Dougherty
Photos by Joseph Dougherty and Eric Hunt

Please read our FAQ pages before writing with orchid culture questions.